Nourishing: the everyday recipes of Bengaluru’s working-class migrants
Niyati Shah and Anoushka Srinivas


Manisha, from Rourkela, Odisha, pours a mixture of onions, garam masala, garlic, turmeric, chili powder, and coriander into her kadai. She slices tomatoes in the final step of her curry.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Bengaluru, Karnataka: Crouched on a small wooden stool in red bangles and a purple nightgown, Manisha cuts through the spice of her chicken curry with the acid of roughly chopped tomatoes. Sunday nights are for fish or meat at the construction site in Doddakannelli, a locality saturated with multi-block residential complexes and IT companies, a symbol of Bengaluru’s rampant neoliberalism that stretches along Sarjapura Road. Tonight, everyone’s making some combination of potato and chicken. Since her husband is home to take care of their son, Manisha said she is enjoying cooking tonight, observing dinner simmering on the chulha (wood-fired oven).With a shy smile, she added that her husband collected wood from the construction site to use for her cooking.
Potato and chicken curry

Ingredients
Onions
Mustard Oil
Chicken
Potato
Chicken Masala
Green Chillies
Dhania Powder
Jeera Powder
Garlic
Ginger
Black Pepper
Garam Masala
Tomatoes
Water
Method
-
Slice onions (well) and saute them in mustard oil.
-
Once the onions are nicely caramelized until golden brown, add the chicken and potato. Saute, saute, saute. On the side, combine all the masalas - chicken masala, green chilies, dhania powder, jeera powder, garlic, ginger, black pepper, and garam masala.
-
Add the masalas and let it simmer for a bit.
-
Add roughly chopped tomatoes to the pot.
-
Cover the kadai and simmer for 30 minutes. Add water as needed.
Potato and chicken curry
Nourishing: the everyday recipes of Bengaluru’s working-class migrants
Niyati Shah and Anoushka Srinivas

Potato and chicken curry
-
Slice onions (well) and saute them in mustard oil.
-
Once they are nicely caramelized until golden brown, add the chicken and potato. Saute, saute, saute. On the side, combine all the masalas - chicken masala, green chilies, dhania powder, jeera powder, garlic, ginger, black pepper, and garam masala.
-
Add the masalas and let it simmer for a bit.
-
Add roughly chopped tomatoes to the pot.
-
Cover the kadai and simmer for 30 minutes. Add water as needed.

Potato and chicken curry
-
Slice onions (well) and saute them in mustard oil.
-
Once they are nicely caramelized until golden brown, add the chicken and potato. Saute, saute, saute. On the side, combine all the masalas - chicken masala, green chilies, dhania powder, jeera powder, garlic, ginger, black pepper, and garam masala.
-
Add the masalas and let it simmer for a bit.
-
Add roughly chopped tomatoes to the pot.
-
Cover the kadai and simmer for 30 minutes. Add water as needed.
Sonali carefully removes crisped potatoes from her kadai before pouring in chilies, tomatoes, and onions for tempering.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Manisha collects all the aromatics in a single dish - a potent paste comprised of onion, turmeric, chicken masala, coriander, and cumin - before pouring it into the sputtering kadai.
Two alleys down, Sonali prepares her own potato and chicken curry on a gas cylinder. She begins with whole cumin and potatoes on high heat in a pool of mustard oil. Once lightly golden, the potatoes are removed. To the same pool of oil in the kadai, she adds in the red onions, tomatoes, and green chilis. Tempered alliums and aromatics burn eyes and tickle noses. She smiles, “It’ll be tasty if you sneeze while cooking.” She went to the market a few hours ago, but didn’t get a chance to purchase some bay leaves due to the weekend crowds. A pair of young Bengali men next door prepare a variant of the dish; they learned how to cook while working in construction sites for the past few years.
Earlier in the week, Sonali had prepared a soya chunks and potato curry. Her son, Ani, prefers this over daal.


Soya chunks and potatoes
-
Separately, cook up the soya chunks in warm water. After they soften, squeeze out the excess water, and fry with oil, salt, and turmeric.
-
Slice up small potatoes, fry, and keep aside.
-
Combine onion, garlic, jeera, and coriander in oil. Cook until fragrant.
-
Add the soya chunks that you’ve kept to the side.
-
Add some more water and oil, and let simmer.
Sonali and her son, Ani, during lunchtime.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
In this migrant labor colony, solastalgia permeates culinary practices. Bengali, Assamese, and Odia families speak of not being able to cook like they used to back home, with a traditional spread of vegetable and meat dishes for at least two meals of the day. “We’ve come here to work. After working all day, how many items can we make? That’s why, we make some rice and pair it with a tomato chutney sometimes,” Manisha says.
Bangalore’s working-class migrants - the factory laborers who pack covers and the construction workers building Sarjapura’s high rises - carry their culinary traditions to the city. On train rides traversing the Deccan plateau, they hold lentils, recipes, and memories. Cooking is a negotiation between customs from their village, the cost of ingredients, and the availability of produce specific to their hometown. As Bengaluru expands, often unknowingly, to house, employ, and feed newcomers, it is on us, the other urban residents, to acknowledge and honor their foodways through their everyday recipes. A recipe can help us peer into a confluence of forces - migration trajectories, housing conditions, and gendered responsibilities – that contour the lived experiences of migrants. It can uncover gaps in the patchwork of government schemes, including the One Nation One Ration Card program, directed towards securing migrant well-being. Documenting and contextualizing a single plate of rice or a fistful of peanuts can illuminate an entire food system, operating in the peripheries of Bangalore and fueling migrant families laboring for a better life.
Mangala Sudha, a community organizer at Sampark, connects Bengaluru’s construction workers to essential government schemes and asserts their right to the city. “Items have become expensive now. According to that calculation, payments [to workers] should increase, “ she says. “They should be able to receive rations without any difficulty - the way they receive rations back home. They should be able to receive them easily. They shouldn’t feel tension to get this or that.”
Around 5 or 6 am, the women rise to prepare breakfast and lunch. Husbands sometimes pitch in. “If he wakes up early, he will make all the food. He makes daal, aloo gobi, eggplant. He has known how to make food from the start (pehle se),” Manisha says. Murmuri (puffed rice) and red chai, sans milk, comprise the go-to breakfast in the Odia and Bengali families at the construction site. The recipe is classic and familiar: chai leaves steeped with ginger, tulsi, water, and sugar. Lunch is tucked into a small tiffin while tea is strained into cups before the morning shift.


Mandakini’s pantry has badi from her hometown in Odisha. Lunch is potato, eggplant, broadbean, and black chickpea curry. Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Mandakini holds a plastic container of badi, an Odia snack made of sun-dried black gram daal, that she brought from her village. It’s a chip, popular with children and adults alike. “I brought two kinds of badi - from the market and from my own home. We made it with our own hands,” she said. She works at the Early Intervention Center that’s run by Sampark, an NGO that serves migrant families across Bengaluru. On the weekdays, she sometimes prepares a raagi-based elixir called madiya pej, a refreshing drink for the students in the labor colony who attend class in the dog days of summer.
For lunch, Mandakini has cooked a mixed vegetable dish involving potato, black chickpeas, eggplants, and broadbeans. Her husband will take leftovers to the construction site tomorrow morning.
In the industrial Northwestern part of Bangalore, Mallikamma prepares jolada (sorghum) roti in her chulha (wood-fired oven) for breakfast. Originally from Yaadgiri, her family has spent the past 10-15 years in Bangalore primarily working in construction. Unfazed by the smoke billowing from the wet wood, she dexterously flattens dough with her left hand and flips roti with her right.
Jolada roti keeps well for several days, serving as a time-efficient and nutrient-dense carbohydrate to feed extended families living under a single roof. Mallikamma’s kitchen feeds 6 people most days and 7 on some days. Once dried, the roti is paired with curd or shenga (peanut) powder on the side. Common agricultural exports from North Karnataka, such as pulses and flours, are brought to the city from the village once a month. Manisha’s son brings her jolada flour once a month from their village in Yadgiri for 80 rupees/kg. Renamma’s family brings togri bele (pigeon pea legumes) from Yadgiri, preferring harvests from their hometown’s black soil over the slim pickings in the market at 2nd stage.
“We would have watched [pulses] grow in front of us, right? So, we can make out [the quality] just by seeing. Here, we can’t tell who or where [the pulses] are coming from. We can’t tell how they are selling them. At least over there, our farmers would have grown them. We pick [the right quality] and bring them,” says Renamma.
Women here cook a wide range of palyas, a catchall term for simple sauteed vegetable dishes devoid of spices like asofoetida and coriander. The vegetable, not the masala, is the protagonist. Women use pundi palya soppu, menthya soppu (fenugreek), kiraksali palya soppu, black-eyed cowpeas, and chowlakaya (cluster beans), among many others. They prepare sajje roti (bajra/pearl millet) during the monsoons and chapati (wheat) on a whim. Sundays and Wednesdays are reserved for meat, and mutton is preferred over chicken.
Mallikamma makes jolada roti in her chulha at 7 am on a Friday morning. A neighbor stores her roti on the tin roof of her home. Workers will fold palya into their roti for lunch at the construction site.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
A sentiment shared by chefs of every walk across the country, food prepared over a chulha is tastier than dishes cooked over a gas stove. Flitting from the outdoor chulha to her room as she combs her hair, Mariyamma describes the sambar she’ll take for work at the factory.
One Wednesday, Shanthamma - Malikamma’s relative - is making heerekayi (ridge gourd) palya. Before starting, she roasts peanuts on her chulha and sets them aside.
Mallikamma’s family member makes ridge gourd palya in her chulha. Food is typically stored in stainless steel vessels perched on shelves.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
The roasted peanuts are crushed into a powder with a mortar and pestle and dusted on the final dish, serving as a thickening agent and nutty garnish.
In Peenya and Doddakanelli, store-bought meat masalas are used in place of a stone spice grinder. Both communities shop at the local market on Sundays and about 1500-2000 rupees are spent in a given week. Affordable essentials grace the cutting boards in both communities: eggplant, onion, tomato, potato. Tomatoes are the common denominator for both communities, often serving as the medium for a quick meal to pair with an old carb. An Indian kitchen’s basics - rice and sabzi, roti and palya - are sustenance. Satisfaction begets simplicity. “It is fine even if the same food is made and consumed all three times a day,” says Shantamma.
However, duration of time in the city, the strength of social ties, and food insecurity determine the dishes prepared in migrant households. Migrant construction workers from eastern and northeastern states practice their culinary heritage in fragments, partly due to the constraints of their built environment and transitory nature of their work. Fish and meat dishes, a mainstay back home, are swapped for more affordable protein sources like lentils and soya chunks. Having established stronger networks in Bengaluru over a decade ago, migrants from North Karnataka bring relatively more of their traditional culinary practices to the weekly menu.
The one-pot method seen at the construction site applies here as well, but in this kitchen, it’s for chitranna (colorful rice). With her daughter balanced on a hip, Mariyamma explains that she’s making this dish since she’s out of vegetables for the week.
A few days prior, Jayamma prepared hasimenasinkayi kara/thokku, a green chili based condiment that is often paired with jolada roti or rice.
Jayamma and her daughter prepare hasimenasinkayi thokku. Mariyamma simmers rice and tomato for breakfast.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Migrant women from North Karnataka boil sweetened, milky chai for breakfast and rice for lunch.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Dinner in Peenya is sometimes motte (egg), rice, and tomato sambar. Shanthamma’s sambar masala comprises Yadgiri’s fragrant red chilies - dried until crimson and pounded until fine.
Mandakini’s husband has sliced onions in preparation for dinner. Tomato and chillis stew for tomato saaru in an outdoor chulha.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Bangalore’s food scene has many facades: heritage homes repurposed into specialty cafes selling grounds for 350 rupees, cloud kitchens in residential back alleys feeding the city’s start-up sector, and longstanding darshini serve up piping-hot filter coffee at 15 rupees. Bangalore postures as a a global entrepot for the world’s cuisine – from gourmet American pancakes to Korean bimbimbap, if you have the willingness - and the means - to pay for it. The nebulous city directs its gaze towards the West as it urbanizes, but this orientation incurs a cost. It oscillates between homegrown and cosmopolitan, sometimes disingenuously striking a balance among the city’s elite residents and restaurants. On the local radio, ads encourage urban parents to take their children to farmlands or seek out idyllic lives by owning a plot on the outskirts of the city. The young and highly educated seek out the novelty of the farm-to-table movement because the origins of their food are unknown to them.
For these communities, cauliflower and eggplant from the family farm always made it to the table. In the bustling labor nakkas of the city, memories of harvests and recipes, sometimes both, are firmly embedded in the bleary-eyed mornings where fires flicker under chulhas and children reach for mothers and biscuits. The resulting dish - always a foolproof riff on a classic Indian meal - stays warm in metal tiffins slung over shoulders making their way for work in the big city.
Notes
We are grateful for Sampark and the Migrant Resilience Collaborative for their indispensable guidance and expertise. The recipes reflect real-time narrations; we’ve translated an approximation of what we heard, saw, smelled, and tasted. As a result, some measurements and details may be omitted, implying an opportunity for the cook (reader) to improvise with intuition.
Author Bio:
Niyati Shah is a public health researcher based in Bengaluru and Washington, DC. Her current study focuses on the intersection of environmental health, migration, and gender. She documents portals on her quiet photography page - https://www.instagram.com/fragment.assemblage/.
Anoushka Srinivas collects stories on individuals and societies while re-exploring her hometown Bengaluru. Her background is in International Studies with a focus on Ethnicity, Identity, and Migration. She has explored South Asian migrants’ relationship with race in the US and supported refugee/ asylum seeking families in Seattle.


Method
-
Slice onions (well) and saute them in mustard oil.
-
Once the onions are nicely caramelized until golden brown, add the chicken and potato. Saute, saute, saute. On the side, combine all the masalas - chicken masala, green chilies, dhania powder, jeera powder, garlic, ginger, black pepper, and garam masala.
-
Add the masalas and let it simmer for a bit.
-
Add roughly chopped tomatoes to the pot.
-
Cover the kadai and simmer for 30 minutes. Add water as needed.
Ingredients
Onions
Mustard Oil
Chicken
Potato
Chicken Masala
Green Chillies
Dhania Powder
Jeera Powder
Garlic
Ginger
Black Pepper
Garam Masala
Tomatoes
Water
Sonali carefully removes crisped potatoes from her kadai before pouring in chilies, tomatoes, and onions for tempering. Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Bengaluru, Karnataka: Crouched on a small wooden stool in red bangles and a purple nightgown, Manisha cuts through the spice of her chicken curry with the acid of roughly chopped tomatoes. Sunday nights are for fish or meat at the construction site in Doddakannelli, a locality saturated with multi-block residential complexes and IT companies, a symbol of Bengaluru’s rampant neoliberalism that stretches along Sarjapura Road. Tonight, everyone’s making some combination of potato and chicken. Since her husband is home to take care of their son, Manisha said she is enjoying cooking tonight, observing dinner simmering on the chulha (wood-fired oven).With a shy smile, she added that her husband collected wood from the construction site to use for her cooking.
Manisha collects all the aromatics in a single dish - a potent paste comprised of onion, turmeric, chicken masala, coriander, and cumin - before pouring it into the sputtering kadai.
Two alleys down, Sonali prepares her own potato and chicken curry on a gas cylinder. She begins with whole cumin and potatoes on high heat in a pool of mustard oil. Once lightly golden, the potatoes are removed. To the same pool of oil in the kadai, she adds in the red onions, tomatoes, and green chilis. Tempered alliums and aromatics burn eyes and tickle noses. She smiles, “It’ll be tasty if you sneeze while cooking.” She went to the market a few hours ago, but didn’t get a chance to purchase some bay leaves due to the weekend crowds. A pair of young Bengali men next door prepare a variant of the dish; they learned how to cook while working in construction sites for the past few years.
Earlier in the week, Sonali had prepared a soya chunks and potato curry. Her son, Ani, prefers this over daal.



Method
-
Separately, cook up the soya chunks in warm water. After they soften, squeeze out the excess water, and fry with oil, salt, and turmeric.
-
Slice up small potatoes, fry, and keep aside.
-
Combine onion, garlic, jeera, and coriander in oil. Cook until fragrant.
-
Add the soya chunks that you’ve kept to the side.
-
Add some more water and oil, and let simmer.
Ingredients
Soya Chunks
Oil
Salt
Turmeric
Small Poatoes
Onion
Garlic
Jeera
Coriander
Water
In this migrant labor colony, solastalgia permeates culinary practices. Bengali, Assamese, and Odia families speak of not being able to cook like they used to back home, with a traditional spread of vegetable and meat dishes for at least two meals of the day. “We’ve come here to work. After working all day, how many items can we make? That’s why, we make some rice and pair it with a tomato chutney sometimes,” Manisha says.
Bangalore’s working-class migrants - the factory laborers who pack covers and the construction workers building Sarjapura’s high rises - carry their culinary traditions to the city. On train rides traversing the Deccan plateau, they hold lentils, recipes, and memories. Cooking is a negotiation between customs from their village, the cost of ingredients, and the availability of produce specific to their hometown. As Bengaluru expands, often unknowingly, to house, employ, and feed newcomers, it is on us, the other urban residents, to acknowledge and honor their foodways through their everyday recipes. A recipe can help us peer into a confluence of forces - migration trajectories, housing conditions, and gendered responsibilities – that contour the lived experiences of migrants. It can uncover gaps in the patchwork of government schemes, including the One Nation One Ration Card program, directed towards securing migrant well-being. Documenting and contextualizing a single plate of rice or a fistful of peanuts can illuminate an entire food system, operating in the peripheries of Bangalore and fueling migrant families laboring for a better life.
Mangala Sudha, a community organizer at Sampark, connects Bengaluru’s construction workers to essential government schemes and asserts their right to the city. “Items have become expensive now. According to that calculation, payments [to workers] should increase, “ she says. “They should be able to receive rations without any difficulty - the way they receive rations back home. They should be able to receive them easily. They shouldn’t feel tension to get this or that.”
Kitchens in both communities are compact and utilitarian - tomatoes for the evening meal soak in a pool of Bisleri water and red onions rest under a shelf carrying plastic containers of rice and soya chunks. Metal utensils and dishes dry upturned on a blue cloth spread across a wooden table and baby eggplants, long beans, and bitter gourd are collected in a basket for tomorrow’s sabzi. A pouch of turmeric, left corner snipped for easy tadkas, leans against repurposed plastic bottle filled with Ruchi Gold palm oil.
An Odia couple, Digaambar and Lata, lament the lack of a variety in the vegetables available at the nearby markets.“Here, you have to just stick with one type of vegetable - potato or cauliflower. Over in the village, you get different kinds of vegetables, like kunduru (scarlet gourd) and patol (pointed gourd),” says Digaambar.
Manisha recalls the food of her hometown Rourkela, Odisha. “The chicken and mutton in my village tastes good,” she says. “The flavor here is not ours; the flavors back home are better.” Sonali reminisces about pakka (parboiled) rice. “Here, the rice is kaccha (raw). We boil the water there; here, we don’t boil the water. The water in pakka rice has a lot of vitamins. When we make khichdi (lentil and rice dish), we use this pakka rice,” she says.
Back home, whole spices are ground against a stone. Manisha gestures at her stone, which sits tucked away in the corner of the kitchen, having been replaced by powdered packets of cumin, chili, and coriander. The stone emerges from hiding when Manisha has the time - her luxury - to collect, roll, and smooth into a potent zinger of a paste.
During the week, she sticks with one-pot basics - long-grain rice and a pot of masoor daal or a vegetable curry. “We usually make masoor daal, because the rate is lower,” she says. Such calculations, including the rate of each ingredient at market or the availability of a cheaper alternative, determine the meals for the week. Many report steeper prices for produce, meat, and pantry items in the city compared to the village. In this community, as in many other non-Kannadiga communities, ration cards from other states aren’t accepted at the public distribution center. Every staple, including rice and daal, needs to be purchased at the market on Sarjapura Road. Families from North Karnataka, on the other hand, receive 10 kilograms of sona masoori rice at the local public distribution center through the One Nation One Ration Card (ONORC) scheme. Disparities in the portability and enforcement of the scheme, which guarantees continuity of rations across state borders, determine the degree of food insecurity experienced by different pockets of migrant communities.
Rations serve as safety nets in the face of income insecurity, climate change, and debt. “When people come here, they don’t get good work, it rains, [and]sometimes you get work and sometimes you don’t. Whoever gets rice from the ration store, it becomes easy for them to eat. They don’t have to worry about asking someone for food or takin on a debt from someone,” says Mangala.
“Rice, lentil, oil - everything from the outside store is expensive. For people receiving rations, they don’t have to pay a single rupee for rice. It’s free. For one person, they give 10 kilos of rice. For five people, it is 50 kilos of rice for one month. That’s a lot for one month - they can eat that much for two months. 50 kilos, from the outside store, is 3000 [rupees],” she explains.
Around 5 or 6 am, the women rise to prepare breakfast and lunch. Husbands sometimes pitch in. “If he wakes up early, he will make all the food. He makes daal, aloo gobi, eggplant. He has known how to make food from the start (pehle se),” Manisha says. Murmuri (puffed rice) and red chai, sans milk, comprise the go-to breakfast in the Odia and Bengali families at the construction site. The recipe is classic and familiar: chai leaves steeped with ginger, tulsi, water, and sugar. Lunch is tucked into a small tiffin while tea is strained into cups before the morning shift.


Mandakini’s pantry has badi from her hometown in Odisha. Lunch is potato, eggplant, broadbean, and black chickpea curry. Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Bengaluru, Karnataka: Crouched on a small wooden stool in red bangles and a purple nightgown, Manisha cuts through the spice of her chicken curry with the acid of roughly chopped tomatoes. Sunday nights are for fish or meat at the construction site in Doddakannelli, a locality saturated with multi-block residential complexes and IT companies, a symbol of Bengaluru’s rampant neoliberalism that stretches along Sarjapura Road. Tonight, everyone’s making some combination of potato and chicken. Since her husband is home to take care of their son, Manisha said she is enjoying cooking tonight, observing dinner simmering on the chulha (wood-fired oven).With a shy smile, she added that her husband collected wood from the construction site to use for her cooking.
Mandakini holds a plastic container of badi, an Odia snack made of sun-dried black gram daal, that she brought from her village. It’s a chip, popular with children and adults alike. “I brought two kinds of badi - from the market and from my own home. We made it with our own hands,” she said. She works at the Early Intervention Center that’s run by Sampark, an NGO that serves migrant families across Bengaluru. On the weekdays, she sometimes prepares a raagi-based elixir called madiya pej, a refreshing drink for the students in the labor colony who attend class in the dog days of summer.
Madiya pej
-
Separately, cook up the soya chunks in warm water. After they soften, squeeze out the excess water, and fry with oil, salt, and turmeric.
-
Slice up small potatoes, fry, and keep aside.
-
Combine onion, garlic, jeera, and coriander in oil. Cook until fragrant.
-
Add the soya chunks that you’ve kept to the side.
-
Add some more water and oil, and let simmer.
Potato, eggplant, broadbeans, and black chickpeas curry
-
Separately, cook up the soya chunks in warm water. After they soften, squeeze out the excess water, and fry with oil, salt, and turmeric.
-
Slice up small potatoes, fry, and keep aside.
-
Combine onion, garlic, jeera, and coriander in oil. Cook until fragrant.
-
Add the soya chunks that you’ve kept to the side.
-
Add some more water and oil, and let simmer.
Jolada roti
-
Separately, cook up the soya chunks in warm water. After they soften, squeeze out the excess water, and fry with oil, salt, and turmeric.
-
Slice up small potatoes, fry, and keep aside.
-
Combine onion, garlic, jeera, and coriander in oil. Cook until fragrant.
-
Add the soya chunks that you’ve kept to the side.
-
Add some more water and oil, and let simmer.
For lunch, Mandakini has cooked a mixed vegetable dish involving potato, black chickpeas, eggplants, and broadbeans. Her husband will take leftovers to the construction site tomorrow morning.
In the industrial Northwestern part of Bangalore, Mallikamma prepares jolada (sorghum) roti in her chulha (wood-fired oven) for breakfast. Originally from Yaadgiri, her family has spent the past 10-15 years in Bangalore primarily working in construction. Unfazed by the smoke billowing from the wet wood, she dexterously flattens dough with her left hand and flips roti with her right.
Jolada roti keeps well for several days, serving as a time-efficient and nutrient-dense carbohydrate to feed extended families living under a single roof. Mallikamma’s kitchen feeds 6 people most days and 7 on some days. Once dried, the roti is paired with curd or shenga (peanut) powder on the side. Common agricultural exports from North Karnataka, such as pulses and flours, are brought to the city from the village once a month. Manisha’s son brings her jolada flour once a month from their village in Yadgiri for 80 rupees/kg. Renamma’s family brings togri bele (pigeon pea legumes) from Yadgiri, preferring harvests from their hometown’s black soil over the slim pickings in the market at 2nd stage.
“We would have watched [pulses] grow in front of us, right? So, we can make out [the quality] just by seeing. Here, we can’t tell who or where [the pulses] are coming from. We can’t tell how they are selling them. At least over there, our farmers would have grown them. We pick [the right quality] and bring them,” says Renamma.
Women here cook a wide range of palyas, a catchall term for simple sauteed vegetable dishes devoid of spices like asofoetida and coriander. The vegetable, not the masala, is the protagonist. Women use pundi palya soppu, menthya soppu (fenugreek), kiraksali palya soppu, black-eyed cowpeas, and chowlakaya (cluster beans), among many others. They prepare sajje roti (bajra/pearl millet) during the monsoons and chapati (wheat) on a whim. Sundays and Wednesdays are reserved for meat, and mutton is preferred over chicken.




Mallikamma makes jolada roti in her chulha at 7 am on a Friday morning. A neighbor stores her roti on the tin roof of her home. Workers will fold palya into their roti for lunch at the construction site.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Bengaluru, Karnataka: Crouched on a small wooden stool in red bangles and a purple nightgown, Manisha cuts through the spice of her chicken curry with the acid of roughly chopped tomatoes. Sunday nights are for fish or meat at the construction site in Doddakannelli, a locality saturated with multi-block residential complexes and IT companies, a symbol of Bengaluru’s rampant neoliberalism that stretches along Sarjapura Road. Tonight, everyone’s making some combination of potato and chicken. Since her husband is home to take care of their son, Manisha said she is enjoying cooking tonight, observing dinner simmering on the chulha (wood-fired oven).With a shy smile, she added that her husband collected wood from the construction site to use for her cooking.
Bele sambaar
-
Add water [in your vessel of choice] and place it on the open fire.
-
Add the lentils to it, and let it boil well.
-
After it comes to a boil, add leafy greens.
-
While it boils, flavor with hasikaayi (green chilies), salt, and turmeric.
-
Once it cooks well together [i.e., the lentils cook until soft], serve with rice.
One Wednesday, Shanthamma - Malikamma’s relative - is making heerekayi (ridge gourd) palya. Before starting, she roasts peanuts on her chulha and sets them aside.


Heerekayi palya
-
Heat 3 tbsp mustard oil.
-
Once hot, add 1-2 sprigs of curry leaves.
-
Roughly chop ~6-7 medium-sized garlic cloves and add it to the oil.
-
Roughly dice 1-1.5 ridge gourds and add to pot. Let simmer for 10 minutes.
-
Add 1 medium sized tomato, roughly chopped.
-
Add water as needed, and let simmer for another 10 minutes.
-
Add 1 tsp turmeric and salt to taste. Add 2 tbsp chilli-powder.
-
Pound the roasted peanuts into a coarse powder (shenga) and add it to the mix.
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Let it simmer for another 10-15 minutes.
Mallikamma’s family member makes ridge gourd palya in her chulha. Food is typically stored in stainless steel vessels perched on shelves.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Bengaluru, Karnataka: Crouched on a small wooden stool in red bangles and a purple nightgown, Manisha cuts through the spice of her chicken curry with the acid of roughly chopped tomatoes. Sunday nights are for fish or meat at the construction site in Doddakannelli, a locality saturated with multi-block residential complexes and IT companies, a symbol of Bengaluru’s rampant neoliberalism that stretches along Sarjapura Road. Tonight, everyone’s making some combination of potato and chicken. Since her husband is home to take care of their son, Manisha said she is enjoying cooking tonight, observing dinner simmering on the chulha (wood-fired oven).With a shy smile, she added that her husband collected wood from the construction site to use for her cooking.
The roasted peanuts are crushed into a powder with a mortar and pestle and dusted on the final dish, serving as a thickening agent and nutty garnish.
In Peenya and Doddakanelli, store-bought meat masalas are used in place of a stone spice grinder. Both communities shop at the local market on Sundays and about 1500-2000 rupees are spent in a given week. Affordable essentials grace the cutting boards in both communities: eggplant, onion, tomato, potato. Tomatoes are the common denominator for both communities, often serving as the medium for a quick meal to pair with an old carb. An Indian kitchen’s basics - rice and sabzi, roti and palya - are sustenance. Satisfaction begets simplicity. “It is fine even if the same food is made and consumed all three times a day,” says Shantamma.
However, duration of time in the city, the strength of social ties, and food insecurity determine the dishes prepared in migrant households. Migrant construction workers from eastern and northeastern states practice their culinary heritage in fragments, partly due to the constraints of their built environment and transitory nature of their work. Fish and meat dishes, a mainstay back home, are swapped for more affordable protein sources like lentils and soya chunks. Having established stronger networks in Bengaluru over a decade ago, migrants from North Karnataka bring relatively more of their traditional culinary practices to the weekly menu.
The one-pot method seen at the construction site applies here as well, but in this kitchen, it’s for chitranna (colorful rice). With her daughter balanced on a hip, Mariyamma explains that she’s making this dish since she’s out of vegetables for the week.
Chitranna
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Slice an onion, tomato, and four green chilis. Saute in mustard oil.
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Add turmeric, chili powder, and salt.
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Add 1.5 cups rice, 3 cups water, and let simmer for 30 minutes - until rice is fully cooked.


Hasimenasinkayi kara/ thokku
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Slice 4-5 green chilies and 2-3 green tomatoes.
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Peel 1 bulb of garlic.
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Dry roast the chilies, garlic, and tomato, and pound into a coarse paste (thokku).
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Dust with roasted peanut powder.
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For added flavor, add hurigadale (roasted/fried bengal gram).
Jayamma and her daughter prepare hasimenasinkayi thokku. Mariyamma simmers rice and tomato for breakfast.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Bengaluru, Karnataka: Crouched on a small wooden stool in red bangles and a purple nightgown, Manisha cuts through the spice of her chicken curry with the acid of roughly chopped tomatoes. Sunday nights are for fish or meat at the construction site in Doddakannelli, a locality saturated with multi-block residential complexes and IT companies, a symbol of Bengaluru’s rampant neoliberalism that stretches along Sarjapura Road. Tonight, everyone’s making some combination of potato and chicken. Since her husband is home to take care of their son, Manisha said she is enjoying cooking tonight, observing dinner simmering on the chulha (wood-fired oven).With a shy smile, she added that her husband collected wood from the construction site to use for her cooking.
A few days prior, Jayamma prepared hasimenasinkayi kara/thokku, a green chili based condiment that is often paired with jolada roti or rice.
Northeastern migrant families may visit home once a year for festivals and weddings; North Karnataka families visit home 4-5 times a year. Sesame seeds, jaggery, peanuts, and coconut are passed between palms and rolled into delicacies during celebrations in both communities. For Digaambarr and Lata, the harvest festival in Odisha, Nua Khai, is honored with a chuda (flattened rice), coconut, and jaggery. For Jayamma, the harvest festival of Sankranti, as well as the full or new moon, are honored with obbattu, a jaggery-based sweet stuffed flatbread. Peanuts, sesame seeds, or bele (lentils) are typical fillings.


Migrant women from North Karnataka boil sweetened, milky chai for breakfast and rice for lunch.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Bengaluru, Karnataka: Crouched on a small wooden stool in red bangles and a purple nightgown, Manisha cuts through the spice of her chicken curry with the acid of roughly chopped tomatoes. Sunday nights are for fish or meat at the construction site in Doddakannelli, a locality saturated with multi-block residential complexes and IT companies, a symbol of Bengaluru’s rampant neoliberalism that stretches along Sarjapura Road. Tonight, everyone’s making some combination of potato and chicken. Since her husband is home to take care of their son, Manisha said she is enjoying cooking tonight, observing dinner simmering on the chulha (wood-fired oven).With a shy smile, she added that her husband collected wood from the construction site to use for her cooking.
Obbattu
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Maida (refined wheat) dough is kneaded and set aside.
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On the wood-fired stove, boil water and add bele (lentils) to it until cooked.
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Add pieces of jaggery while it is cooking and mix it well until it is smooth, solid, and well incorporated. Take it off the heat.
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Once cooled, make small balls out of the jaggery+bele mix.
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Roll out a small piece of the maida dough
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Add one jaggery+bele ball as stuffing within the piece of maida and wrap it into a ball.
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Next, flatten it out [like you would for rotti], heat and cook it well [on a skillet], and take it off the heat to serve.
Dinner in Peenya is sometimes motte (egg), rice, and tomato sambar. Shanthamma’s sambar masala comprises Yadgiri’s fragrant red chilies - dried until crimson and pounded until fine.


Tomato sambar
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Wash and roughly cut tomatoes.
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Add chili powder, salt, garlic, and turmeric as needed.
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To a vessel of choice on the fire, make a tadka out of oil, garlic, mustard seeds and cumin.
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Add in the tomato and allow it to cook well.
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Top with a generous amount of powdered, roasted bengal gram and cover with a lid until well cooked.
Mandakini’s husband has sliced onions in preparation for dinner. Tomato and chillis stew for tomato saaru in an outdoor chulha.
Niyati Shah/The Migration Story
Bengaluru, Karnataka: Crouched on a small wooden stool in red bangles and a purple nightgown, Manisha cuts through the spice of her chicken curry with the acid of roughly chopped tomatoes. Sunday nights are for fish or meat at the construction site in Doddakannelli, a locality saturated with multi-block residential complexes and IT companies, a symbol of Bengaluru’s rampant neoliberalism that stretches along Sarjapura Road. Tonight, everyone’s making some combination of potato and chicken. Since her husband is home to take care of their son, Manisha said she is enjoying cooking tonight, observing dinner simmering on the chulha (wood-fired oven).With a shy smile, she added that her husband collected wood from the construction site to use for her cooking.
Bangalore’s food scene has many facades: heritage homes repurposed into specialty cafes selling grounds for 350 rupees, cloud kitchens in residential back alleys feeding the city’s start-up sector, and longstanding darshini serve up piping-hot filter coffee at 15 rupees. Bangalore postures as a a global entrepot for the world’s cuisine – from gourmet American pancakes to Korean bimbimbap, if you have the willingness - and the means - to pay for it. The nebulous city directs its gaze towards the West as it urbanizes, but this orientation incurs a cost. It oscillates between homegrown and cosmopolitan, sometimes disingenuously striking a balance among the city’s elite residents and restaurants. On the local radio, ads encourage urban parents to take their children to farmlands or seek out idyllic lives by owning a plot on the outskirts of the city. The young and highly educated seek out the novelty of the farm-to-table movement because the origins of their food are unknown to them.
For these communities, cauliflower and eggplant from the family farm always made it to the table. In the bustling labor nakkas of the city, memories of harvests and recipes, sometimes both, are firmly embedded in the bleary-eyed mornings where fires flicker under chulhas and children reach for mothers and biscuits. The resulting dish - always a foolproof riff on a classic Indian meal - stays warm in metal tiffins slung over shoulders making their way for work in the big city.
Mandakini’s husband has sliced onions in preparation for dinner. Tomato and chillis stew for tomato saaru in an outdoor chulha.
Notes
We are grateful for Sampark and the Migrant Resilience Collaborative for their indispensable guidance and expertise. The recipes reflect real-time narrations; we’ve translated an approximation of what we heard, saw, smelled, and tasted. As a result, some measurements and details may be omitted, implying an opportunity for the cook (reader) to improvise with intuition.
Author Bio:
Niyati Shah is a public health researcher based in Bengaluru and Washington, DC. Her current study focuses on the intersection of environmental health, migration, and gender. She documents portals on her quiet photography page - https://www.instagram.com/fragment.assemblage/.
Anoushka Srinivas collects stories on individuals and societies while re-exploring her hometown Bengaluru. Her background is in International Studies with a focus on Ethnicity, Identity, and Migration. She has explored South Asian migrants’ relationship with race in the US and supported refugee/ asylum seeking families in Seattle.